A Trek to Everest Base Camp, One Step at a Time

At the airport, Shira Lazar says she was anxious about trekking to Everest Base Camp: her previous hikes had mostly been a few hours near Los Angeles. Boarding the plane, she decides to embrace the uncertainty of the journey.

In Kathmandu, the group explores the busy Thamel area, with its markets and trekking shops, and gets to know one another. Back at the hotel, Lazar works out how to fit her belongings into a shared bag for the trek.

The group visits the hilltop Swayambhunath temple, often called the Monkey Temple. A guide describes the stupa’s symbolism and the Buddhist practice of turning prayer wheels. Lazar also shows a squat toilet as part of her account of adapting to unfamiliar surroundings.

The group leaves Kathmandu for a small-plane connection to Lukla. Rain and changing conditions complicate the journey, offering an early lesson in flexibility. Lazar shows the runway and the group’s arrival before the first trek.

From Lukla, the party walks toward the Dudh Koshi River, passing grasslands, bridges and mountain views before spending a night in a tea house. Lazar recognizes the work of Sherpas and porters carrying equipment and supplies.

After reaching Namche, the group takes a shorter walk to acclimatize. Lazar describes variable temperatures, the need to pace herself and a stop with views of Everest and neighboring peaks.

The group visits a village associated with Edmund Hillary’s support for local schools and other facilities, then returns to Namche. Lazar celebrates finding espresso at a local coffee shop.

On a day of silence, the group walks through forest toward Tengboche as the weather becomes colder. Lazar describes a mountain tea house: a shared heated dining area and separate costs for items such as hot water and charging.

After meditation and yoga near Tengboche monastery, the group continues through the valley, stopping in Pangboche for lunch and Tibetan bread before heading toward Dingboche. Lazar shows the mountain views and the group’s routine.

Another short, steep walk helps the group adjust to higher altitude. Lazar says the experience teaches her to move at her own pace rather than treat the trek as a race.

At an Everest memorial, Lazar pays respects to local people, Sherpas and visitors who died in the mountains, including victims of the 2015 earthquake and avalanche. She reflects on fear and the value of life.

Lazar calls the trek one of her most demanding physical and mental experiences. Near a final stop, she is delighted to find apples and marvels at the effort required to bring food into the mountains.

She says the last two nights were difficult as altitude began to affect her, before the group celebrates reaching base camp after a ten-day trek. These are personal experiences, not guidance for treating altitude illness; symptoms at altitude warrant appropriate medical attention.

The following day, Lazar takes a helicopter back toward Lukla, mentioning headaches and facial swelling. An aviation accident disrupts the group’s onward flight plans, and they arrange a helicopter to Kathmandu.

Looking back during the flight, Lazar reflects on the scale of the mountains and the people who helped make the trip possible. She hopes to carry a sense of presence, gratitude and taking life one step at a time into daily life.